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By webadmin | March 11 2011
New York, New York – Reported by Elite Traveler, the private jet lifestyle magazine
Built around a retrograde minute, the jumping hour comprises a 12-link chain triggered by a connecting rod system identical to those found in HL collections. An ingenious system, unique in the world of wristwatches. This allows the whole ensemble to be shifted in a controlled manner thanks to a speed regulator that preserves the components from any unwanted shocks caused by the workings of the timepiece. It features a dedicated barrel, whose sole purpose is to provide enough energy for the entire system. This new milestone in terms of time display places HAUTLENCE among the brands bringing a new dynamic to the watchmaker’s art by breaking new ground in terms of display, giving the profession a new, three-dimensional vision of time.
In order to create a cinematic spectacle, HAUTLENCE has ensured that the movement of the chain allowing the hour to be changed in the aperture is accompanied by the 60º rotation of the entire escapement assembly. Driven by the motion of the hour chain, the escapement assembly will move to a new position every hour, in an axis parallel to the wrist. This way, even if the watch is not worn, the movement of the escapement itself will fight the negative effects of gravity on the precision of the watch to be statistically compensated for should the watch remain immobile.
This design was conceived by watchmakers anxious to offer the wearer, in addition to genuine entertainment for the eyes, the satisfaction of chronometric quality, in other words, a precision timepiece that is as beautiful as it is accurate.
It took the entire team over three years to develop, internally and in the utmost secrecy, a true novelty in the world of watchmaking that breaks away from the mechanisms of the past without forgoing historic regulation methods.
Futuristic in its construction method and the way in which it delivers the time, this piece is truly revolutionary.
Thanks to the integration work of the manufacture calibre and to deep reflection, the shape of the gear teeth has been optimised, higher-quality oscillators have been created and the energy consumption of the various complications has been regulated. Through effort and constant research, HAUTLENCE is now able to unveil the second stage of its vision of innovative time display.
The most remarkable part of the HL2.0 is that the complete escapement system, including the plate, bridges, and wheels move to a new position each time the hour jumps, making four complete 60° rotations every single day. To counter balance the debilitating effects of gravity on precision, HAUTLENCE has made the entire mechanism move; a first in watchmaking history.
This mechanical masterpiece has several objectives:
To display the hours in an aperture, on a 12-link chain moving in a controlled, regulated manner every 60 minutes. The movement of the chain is from hour to hour is purposely slowed to 4 seconds; as opposed to an instantaneous system, which is too quick, or to a continuous-action system that does not allow the numeral to be visualised correctly between two times.
To obtain an optimal chronometric result without disturbance from the energy required for the complication and animation of the display, in a system that compensates for the effects of gravity. The regulating organ is a set of gears that change position (60°) every hour like the tourbillon, which does this continuously.
Created from a need for renewal, a desire to add a breath of modernity to the market, the founding ideas of HAUTLENCE saw the light of day in 2001 under the impetus of a few passionate people, motivated by the idea of shaking up the prevailing conformism of the watchmaking world.
Based on a new approach to reading the time, presenting complications in a different, highly original manner, HAUTLENCE timepieces are aimed at those who love beautiful mechanisms, combining modern design technologies and 3D simulation with respect for the artistic professions closely tied to high watchmaking.
1. Jumping hour display with a 12-link chain presented in an aperture, the hour change of which is performed in a controlled manner, in a few seconds, without shocks.
2. Chronometry mastered by preventing the energy necessary to the complication and movement from disturbing the correct functioning of the mechanism.
3. Optimal chronometry in a system that compensates for the effects of gravity, the regulating organ and a set of gears change position every hour (like the tourbillon, which does this continuously).
In order to meet the objectives listed above, HAUTLENCE has separated the energy necessary for chronometry from that necessary for animation, with the addition of a second dedicated barrel to the complication. This is initiated by the return to zero of the retrograde minutes, with a connecting-rod, sensor and spiral system (like the HL model) which frees the energy of the barrel of the complication. The speed of this barrel is controlled by a speed regulator (at the centre of the retrograde minutes).
As for the chain, it is driven every hour by the barrel of the complication at the passing of the hour. It acts on the chain via the speed regulator, which ensures the gentleness of the movement, and via a mechanism that moves it forward one step every hour. This advancement of the chain then turns, by 60°, the main plate that supports the regulating organ and some of the chronometry wheels. The operation has no torque effect on the chronometry.
In-house revolutionary self-winding movement
Regulating organ 18,800 vibrations
45-hour power reserve
Water resistant to 30m/100ft
Custom developed folding clasp by Hautlence in titanium/gold
Alligator full-skin square scale
28 per model
HL2.2 RG: $200,000 / HL2.1 WG: $219,000