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November 27, 2013updated Jan 30, 2014

THE WINDING STAIR

By Chris Boyle

The Winding Stair fishplate

Style / Ambiance: This buzzy little eatery has long been a favorite for bohemian types flocking to the bookshop below, and a recent renovation has extended its fan base well beyond that.

There are now few better places in Dublin for a traditional Irish meal, and the chef always keeps you guessing with some brilliant modern twists. All ingredients are locally sourced and organic, with some delicious seafood and a superb selection of Irish farmhouse cheeses and cured meats. Add to this an excellent wine list and friendly service and you’ll find the Winding Stair’s charms hard to resist. The bookcase-lined walls make a happy home for both books and wine, and the dark wood floorboards and big windows lend a bistro feel that bland chain cafés would love to imitate. On a sunny day, get yourself a table overlooking the river and tuck into some potted Dingle Bay crab on soda bread or an Ummera bacon-wrapped pork fillet with roasted onion mash, savoy cabbage and apple gravy. For the sweet tooth, it would be remiss not to try the famous bread and butter pudding with whiskey sauce.

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