The jump-hour watch often removes the hour hand and displays the hour through an aperture. In ladies’ timepieces, this gives watchmakers more room on the dial to showcase their jewelry artistry and creatively display the minutes.
They are also technical masterpieces: As the minutes approach 60, power builds up to make the movement’s hour disc jump to the next, and it must stop at precisely the right place to be sure it is perfectly positioned within the aperture, all without losing accuracy.
Here, Elite Traveler selects three jump-hour watches notable for their opulence, their design and their quality.
Bulgari Berries High-Jewlry Watch
Combining high jewelry with high complications so effortlessly could only be achieved by a handful of houses, including Bulgari, whose watches continually break world records and whose high jewelry features significant gemstones and difficult techniques. The Berries watch combines jumping hours with retrograde minutes. The top portion of the case swirls down into the dial, encircling the hour aperture with raised gold and colored gemstones, including tourmaline, emerald, sapphire, ruby and amethyst. Below, the retrograde minutes sit on a snow-set diamond dial with ruby indexes. The blued minute hand moves from 0 to 60 as the hour progresses, and exactly when the hour changes, two things happen simultaneously: The hour disc jumps to the following hour and the minute hand instantly swings back to 0, faster than the eye can detect.
Price on request
By appointment, contact Anita Paredes, +1 800 285 4274, bulgari.com