The New Dials

The New Dials 1Blue dials are a trend that seems to be gaining market share each year and almost every watchmaker presented at least one in their latest collection.

H. Moser & Cie, the family-owned Swiss business, produces just 1,000 timepieces a year, each one designed and created with in-house movements. This 18-karat white gold, electric blue Endeavour Perpetual Calendar ($60,000, Harrods) makes a strong statement. Many perpetual calendars include multiple subdials to show the technical prowess of the movement, but H. Moser & Cie includes a small second subdial and a power reserve indicator.

The New Dials 2Frédérique Constant caused a stir when it introduced a new horological smartwatch with a classic analog watch face. More notable is its Manufacture Collection, which includes its most technologically advanced watches, all with in-house movements. The navy-blue dial on the Tourbillon model ($35,500, pictured) has applied silvered indexes for a clean face, all the better to showcase the namesake tourbillon. All timepieces from the Manufacture Collection are limited in production, this one to 188 pieces.

This year also marks the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser watch family at IWC, which celebrated by creating the new 52000-calibers. The Perpetual Calendar ($42,900, Tourneau)
The New Dials 3was refreshed with all blue dials. It includes displays for date, month, year and a perpetual moonphase for both hemispheres. The automatic movement is powered by the updated 52615-caliber for even greater accuracy. The handmade black alligator strap was made in collaboration with Italian shoemaker Santoni, and is limited to 250 pieces.