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H. Moser & Cie: Bold Elegance in Haute Horlogerie

By Chris Boyle

h moser and cieH. Moser & Cie. has started 2014 with a bold new take on traditional watchmaking.

The dark elegance of the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition is the first in a series of developments from H. Moser & Cie., which are both exceptional and very rare.

The H. Moser & Cie. in-house perpetual calendar is one of the most innovative yet user-friendly complications ever produced.

This unique movement not only marks time by adjusting for leap years and the different number of days in certain months, the Flash Date Calendar harnesses the energy to switch the date accurately in a fraction of a second.

The month indication is a further mastery of understatement, using the hour indices to mark the months with a small third hand shaped like an arrow. This is one of the few perpetual calendars that may be adjusted forward and back at any time of day, without risking damage to the movement or a visit to your watchmaker. And its technical pedigree: the Perpetual Calendar was awarded the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève for this combination of groundbreaking features.

With the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition, H. Moser & Cie. ventures into new territory. The Manufacture explored high-tech materials to complement its collection in gold and platinum, in search of the perfect functional material to accompany its pure design.

Titanium was chosen for its exceptional mechanical properties. It is very hard, easy to wear, hypoallergenic and extremely light. It also brings a unique urban yet timeless black finish to the watch that puts a focus on form and perfect surfaces.

The burnished glow of the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition hints at the material within: the case and pin-buckle clasp are titanium with a DLC treatment. Even the extrusions of the Moser “M” on the crown are purely etched from this hard metal and finished immaculately.

The dial’s black surface is punctuated by rose gold indices and hands, enhancing both the timeless character of the watch and the legibility. The off-centre seconds dial reveals impeccable gold accents, marking time with a hacking seconds function. The matte black finish on the movement includes a blackened escapement bridge that lets the Moser escapement gleam from within.

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The mood is continued by the extreme matte finish of the carbon-coated alligator leather band. Thanks to the rigorous attention-to-detail by H. Moser engineers and watchmakers, the tradition initiated by Heinrich Moser in 1828 continues with new vigour.

The Perpetual Calendar Black Edition will be available from May 2014 to fascinate the most daring gentlemen with its bold elegance.

Technical features of the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition; reference 341.050-020:

Titanium model, black dial, black finish on movement, black carbon-coated alligator strap.

Case

DLC-treated titanium, three-part
Diameter: 40.8 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
See-through curved sapphire crystal case-back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”

Dial

Appliqué indexes and hands
Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand
Sub-dial for seconds
Big date display

Movement

In-house hand-wound calibre HMC 341
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 5.8 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vib/h
28 jewels
Power reserve: minimum seven days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated

Functions

Perpetual Flash Calendar
Big date display
Centre-hand month indicator
Hour and minute
Off-centre seconds dial
Power reserve indicator on dial
Leap-year cycle indicator on movement side

Strap

Hand-stitched, carbon-coated black alligator
Solid titanium DLC-treated pin buckle, with engraved Moser logo

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