This story originally appeared in the March/April 2017 issue of Elite Traveler.
Diamonds are forever, but there’s something about architectural jewelry in gorgeous gold that is pure and beautiful. In Paris, Gaia Repossi modernized her family’s brand with avant-garde high jewelry that uses significant stones in unexpected ways. “It’s a new and quite radical approach,” Gaia says, “with huge respect for traditions and craftsmanship.”
Also on the cutting edge is Anita Ko, known for her unique designs that don’t treat fine jewelry as too “precious” to be innovative. This choker has a pear-shaped diamond on one end and a marquis-shaped diamond on the other. Both Ippolita and Vhernier use gold to create curved, sensual pieces. Vhernier’s ring is ultra-slick and modern, and Ippolita’s cuff has a more raw feeling. From the Supernova collection, this David Yurman ring explodes with differently shaped points topped with diamonds.
New York-based jeweler Gurhan works with 24K “pure gold,” for its rich, warm color. Reviving techniques from ancient goldsmiths, today artisans hammer the metal by hand, giving each piece a unique look. Belperron, a recently revived early 20th-century brand, uses original designer Suzanne Belperron’s sketches to create jewelry that still feels modern. The earclips use 22K “virgin gold.”