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[ Thierry Chaunu ]
President and Chief Operating Officer |
| Leviev |
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When diamond legend Lev Leviev prepared to launch his own brand of jewelry with a focus on the world’s most spectacular diamonds, he teamed up with a master from the branded jewelry side of the business: Thierry Chaunu. As president and Chief Operating Officer of Leviev since its debut in 2006, Chaunu has already overseen the opening of Leviev’s grand boutiques in exclusive locations, spear-headed the company’s first watch collection, and worked hand in hand with countless clients around the world to create highly personal and incredibly valuable treasures. This spring, Elite Traveler’s Editorial Director Laura Hughes and Style Editor Tanya Dukes met with Chaunu in Leviev’s Madison Avenue boutique. With magnificent new Leviev diamond jewelry displayed on a table before them, Chaunu discussed the pieces, what his clients value most when buying diamonds today, and how this exclusive division of the world’s largest diamond cutting and polishing firm can maintain its bespoke appeal.
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ET: Which people and events throughout your career have influenced you the most?
Thierry Chaunu: There are people who have helped me climb the mountain, and one would be the CEO of Cartier when I was there, Alain Dominique Perrin, who is now executive director at Richemont. He built Cartier. I remember when I met him, I was told I was going to meet the president of Cartier, and I expected a James Bond in a tuxedo! So I was surprised when we first met, at a Palm Beach event, that he wore jeans and a polo shirt. We talked for one hour, and he offered the position to me to go back to France and work for Cartier International. I was recently married at the time, but we made the move and I was product manager there for three years. Then one day he came into my office and said, “You are going back to the States, to be vice president of marketing in New York for Cartier.”
A person who impressed me as a merchant was Stanley Marcus. Back in 1995 he must have been about 90 years old. I remember walking with him through the aisles of Neiman Marcus in Dallas, and shoppers were saying, “Good morning, Mr. Marcus.” He was so nicely dressed, agile and youthful, and a true merchant until the end. I was president of Christofle then. He showed me how important it is to provide the customer—whoever they may be—a sense of comfort at every level. From a personal relationship, to comfort in what they buy, to physical comfort in the store. Comfort has many meanings. I thought once you establish that, and do it for everyone who works with you, it becomes the personality of the company. Great companies are built on passion, and we must share that passion with the customers.
ET: How does an executive convey that passion?
Thierry Chaunu: It starts with yourself, the love of your product, respect for its artisans and specialists, and vision for the company. Passion penetrates every action, and none is more meaningful than when you happen to be working with like-minded individuals. At Leviev, we are all passionate because we are working with the greatest diamonds in the world.
ET: Some brands are positioning their extensive histories as proof of value and authenticity, especially in these tough economic times. How does a relatively new brand like Leviev position itself to thrive now?
Thierry Chaunu: Diamonds are millions of years old! The brand began in 2006. It started in London, but Mr. Leviev has been a legend in the diamond industry for the last 40 years. And our artisans have years and years of experience. I am only 52, not as old as Cartier, but for all of my life I have had a passion for luxury goods. What we are doing at Leviev is so unique. Other companies may have a very rich heritage, but what counts for the luxury buyer now is quality. It doesn’t matter if the company once served a royal court that is now defunct. Today’s luxury buyer built their own empire, they are savvy, and they are not swayed by someone who had a certain client a century ago.
ET: What kind of relationship does Leviev create with its clients?
Thierry Chaunu: It’s about our expertise, and showing friendliness from when they first come in. When we were launching the retail brand, the design of the store was made to feel almost like a living room: warm atmosphere and luxury fabrics all around. But the real star is the diamond. We are not trying to impress clients by building a temple. The boutiques are Zen-like and friendly. And our staff are friendly beyond a smile. They have to be genuinely nice, knowledgeable of course, but personality is important. Our customers can see through a story. They appreciate directness, genuineness, and service. They don’t have time to waste. They could go anywhere else and say, “I want this and this.” But any other company wouldn’t have access to the diamonds and products we do, so they won’t be able to do it. We have direct access to our own diamonds, and are the largest cutter and polisher of diamonds in the world. We can react so quickly, as opposed to having to go to a supplier and say, “Can you please loan me a stone like this for a customer viewing?”
ET: What portion of Leviev’s business is bespoke?
Thierry Chaunu: We invite our customers to tell us what exactly they have in mind, and then we help give birth to an idea if they don’t know how to formulate it. Our job is just to assist them. We can give our opinion, but we don’t make decisions for them. And it’s deeply satisfying intellectually. In the luxury category, because the business models for so many companies are to gain market share, their production is semi-industrial. After a certain number of units, the manufacturing process changes to that. Then, for a company to go back to true custom designs, they just can’t because no one would stop a production line if a customer wants their piece to be like X, Y and Z. Specialization, which made luxury what it is in the first place, is lost for many companies. At best, for many, it is confined to a small appendix, and needs to be done on the side for prestige. But for us, we’re never going to have 100 stores. It is our business model from the start. It’s not derogatory, there are just two different types of jewelers. Just as some companies specialize in bespoke cars.
ET: What new products will Leviev introduce next?
Thierry Chaunu: We always will be about extraordinary diamonds. The jewelry design stems from the diamonds. This new Art Deco Collection shows our clients that we do the whole gamut. We have a wonderful experience with the creative process as our team works together to complement each aspect of the business.
ET: And what is next for the timepiece collection?
Thierry Chaunu: The watches are not wholesale, so they are only available at our four boutiques in the world. Our clients appreciate watches, and these are very special for them. They are technically on par with the highest quality watches in the world. They are made in Geneva, and are very limited editions. They are more like a complement for our customers’ collections, since we are first about diamonds. But it’s nice to propose to clients a collection of watches, and now a lot collect them too. The watches were not done with the ambition of becoming a watch brand.
ET: How else are you seeing business through this tough economy?
Thierry Chaunu: We’re there for our clients. Whenever they want to purchase, we extend to them the best service and the fewest worries. Most clients come to us because they know we have the best value for money because we own the diamonds. People are still looking to invest and buy beautiful things, and these people want the top, the utmost. The top 5 percent of diamonds in terms of quality, in the world, have proven to be a sound investment. People are coming in here and saying they are pulling out of real estate, or the stock market, and want to invest in diamonds. There is something comforting knowing I can pass a diamond on to another generation, or put it on my finger. We will keep to the true luxury, and that is what will get us through.
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