MASH gives you that heady Las Vegas feeling you’ve left the real world and entered a playboy’s playground. Deep underground in a glorious former ballroom, there are no signs of humdrum daily life outside, letting you rack up the cost and calories with abandon.
Blood-red leather, dark timber veneer, glass meat lockers—MASH oozes indulgence at every turn. The listed venue was once part of the 800-room Regent Palace Hotel, a Belle Époque beauty that was later given the Art Deco treatment by legendary stage designer Oliver Bernard. A recent restoration by The Crown Estate—to the tune of £300 million—saw the original woodwork, gold leaf architraving, marble, brass and gold features all meticulously reinstated. The effect is magnificent—the type of cavernous space you can barely believe exists under the mess of streets in Soho.
Now for the food. Oh the food. Starters include big battered squid with chili and lime, foie gras terrine and steak tartare, but the headline act here is the steak. Discerning carnivores are faced with the best kind of tough choice, with prime cuts from Uruguay, Denmark, the USA and Australia dominating the menu. The Danish sirloin stands out for its flavor, while the Australian Wagyu sirloin has a texture that makes you glad to be alive. All this gorgeous red meat is complemented by an encyclopedic wine list, masterminded by no less than ten sommeliers.
This oh-so-American steakhouse is in fact the creation of Danish company Copenhagen Concepts, who already have seven MASH restaurants in Denmark. The founders wanted to provide an alternative to the Nordic food trend sweeping Denmark, and the result is something triumphantly anti-molecular. This is no-holes-barred stateside excess and will fit the elite traveler like a glove.
See more top London restaurants in the Elite Guide to London